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The faucet is 'sweated' on. Steps to remove and replace? I'm all thumbs with plumbing.  |
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John Arnold wrote:
The faucet is 'sweated' on. Steps to remove and replace? I'm all thumbs with plumbing. |
OK first you need to do is find the shut-off on that line to the outside faucet. Then examine the piping you have. Let me know how it goes from the outside of the house to the inside. Is it a straight line or are there elbows when it gets inside.
Then let me know what kind of plumbing tools you have and we can see if it will be cost effective to do it. Some of the tools needed are pricey.
To install a new faucet, cut (with a pipe cutter only) the old pipe inside the house where convienent. Purchase a new sillcock of the type needed for your area (freeze proof if needed). Push the new valve through from the outside and then measure the distance to the old pipe. Don't forget to add where it goes into the end of the valve. Put a coupling onto the old pipe and test fit all. If all looks ok then procede to sweat away. I would remove the valve, and sweat on the pce of pipe to the valve first, then put the valve with the pipe into the hole through the house, then into the coupling. lastly sweat the coupling both sides. If you have never sweated a joint I would practice a few times first. Here is some tips:
1-using a sanding screen (comes in a roll) sand the last inch of the pipe going around the pipe until bright copper.
2-using a wire brush that is the correct size for the pipe, clean the inside of the fittings by twisting back and forth for about 10 times.
3-Using flux and a small brush coat all surfaces
4-put all together
5-heat with propane torch from the bottom of the fitting. The heat will travel up and will also heat the pipe too. Move the flame around a little, don't just hold it in one place or you'll overheat.
6-touch the end of the solder (95-5) no lead please to the top side which is away from the heat. If it is hot enough the solder will melt and travel into the joint all the way around.
7-use a rag and CAREFULLY wipe the solder going around the pipe. The solder is HOT and will drip a bit so don't get burned. Don't use a wet rag. The water will turn to steam and burn.
Hope this helps!! |
There are several types of sillcock valves available.
Some areas require a vacuum break type that won't allow water to be sucked back into the system.
Water is very powerful when it freezes. It can bend and break solid metal. So some areas would require a freeze resistant model. This has a 10" or longer body that protrudes into the house and the handle is the only part that is on the outside (well of course the part you attach the hose to is there too). The actual valve is 10" - 12" inside the house where there is heat in the winter so it shouldn't freeze.
If you use a regular inexpensive sillcock then you need a shut-off inside that has a little drain plug to bleed off the water between the shut-off and the exterior sillcock, so the water won't freeze inside the valve and split it open. That's always a nice surprise in the spring when you turn on the water to the sillcock for the first time and water is shooting everywhere inside the house!!
TheGuru |
In my last house the tap to the outside was leaking and I was going to fix it myself, but when trying to remove the broken faucet to replace it with a new one, I broke the pipe.
I moved. |
