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Joint compound & durabond mixed together??

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What is your opinon of mixing together 50% joint compound & 50%
durabond (45min) to tape & coat a new house 200 sheets drywall, first & second coats,all joints, nails, cornerbead,etc.
What are the pros & the cons of this operation other than drying quicker.
Thank You TonyD1 Question
Welcome to the forum!

Some of the guys say it's OK to mix the setting type powder with JC and others say they wouldn't. I have tried 50:50 mix it in the past and you need to add water to thin it out enough to use it. It then starts to harden in the bucket so you can't just mix a big batch either. If you are going through all that trouble, just use the Durabond alone. If you need to stretch out the harden time, use a 90 or even a 120. I use Durabond 90 for the first coat to bury the fiberglass tape, to set the corner bead and to hit the screws. It dries quicker and the second coat can be applied same day.

Durabond is VERY hard when dry, VERY hard to sand and is VERY crack resistant so it is a good choice for the first coat only.

But for that smooth finish USG Joint compound is best for the finish coats.
If you are going to do this yourself why not try using some of the new power taping tools out there! You can buy them right online, or you can probably rent them for a week or so!

EasyClean® Bazooka® Automatic Taper. Used to simultaneously apply tape and joint compound to all horizontal and vertical joints, ceiling joints, interior/exterior corners and angles. The Bazooka taper automatically dispenses the precise amount of tape and compound for fast, efficient operation.

Maxizooka® Automatic Taper. Same as above with a 12' reach!

Minizooka® Automatic Taper. A smaller version of the Bazooka, allowing work in closets, laundry rooms, and small bathrooms. The Minizooka is ideal for scaffold work.

The MudRunner. The Ames MudRunner provides precise control of mud flow-rate through a Corner Finisher, reducing the effort and time required to produce high quality corners.

The Ames Corner Roller. Used to embed the joint tape firmly into corner and ceiling angles, leaving the angle ready for finishing.

Ames EasyClean® Flat Finisher. Available in 7", 10", and 12" widths. The adjustable, hardened-steel blade trowels the joint compound, feathers the edge and leaves just the right amount of 'crown' down the middle of taped joints. The finished joint needs little or no sanding.

EasyFinish™ Finisher Handles: Used with Flat Finisher above so you can work from the floor. Available in 34", 42", 54", and 72".

Ames Corner Finisher - EasyRoll®: Adjustable, and is designed to skim interior 90 degree angles after the bedding coat is applied and will handle first and second coats with a simple cam adjustment. It wipes down and feathers both sides in one pass. High carbon steel blades remove excess compound and feather the edges for a finish that needs little or no sanding.

EasyClean® Nail Spotter. Available in 2" and 3" widths. the Ames Nail Spotter applies compound to nail or screw-heads in one pass. With the Nail Spotter you can work from the floor, eliminating the need for scaffolds.

EasyClean® Loading Pump. Fills tools with joint compound easily with this pump.
You asked via PM:

“Wont every field & butt joint flash when painted if using hotmud???”

Like I said above... I don't use "hot mud". I rather just use mixed Durabond 90 for the first coat then, using some of the taping tools listed above, use USG joint compound (the green lid).

The use of 'hot mud' to me, isn't worth the effort for what you get. If there is a problem with the painting or tape job, it will be the fault of the mixing two different types of joint compounds together. One hardens by evaporation and the other has a chemical reaction. One of the guys I asked, said if you happen to put too much powder into the joint compound, it draws out too much of the water too fast and you get a powdery softer surface later. He doesn't recommend mixing the two.


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