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| This topic is available here on The Repair-Place forum | We're installing a sheet rock patch in a wall with a stud behind it. Now if there was not a stud here, you would have to get some clips or use a small, thin board on each end for something to screw to. Screw the patch in nice and tight. Then we would take some sheet rock mesh tape. I prefer the mesh tape because you can just stick it on- it's self-adhesive, and the joint compoud goes through the mesh and makes a really nice bond with the wallboard.
You take some sheet rock joint compound, also called mud, and make a layer over the mesh tape. Then you'll sand off the excess. You're going to do this in several thin coats, rather than one thick coat.
This first coat does not have to be very smooth. Just get it thin, and let it dry. This is probably going to take three to four hours to dry, and once it's dry, you'll be able to tell it will just be all white.
After that you sand it, put two more coats on it, sanding in between each coat. Then you're ready to paint and prime it. | |
| Thanks for the info!! But I would do a California patch. It is MUCH easier and a lot more forgiving.
- First square up the hole.
- Then cut a piece of drywall the same thickness as the hole, 3" wider and 3" taller than the hole.
- Turn over the patch piece and score about 1 1/2" in from the edges with a utility knife. You are not going through but just scoring the paper to the same size as the hole.
- Now carefully fold back and peel of the drywall part at the score but leave the FRONT paper intact. You do not want to mess up the front paper but remove the rock part behind it. After you do one it will be easy!
- Now you have a piece of sheetrock with the front paper sticking out 1 1/2" all the way around. Test fit into the hole to make sure it fits OK.
- Put joint compound on the edges of the hole, also on the face of the wall out at least 2" and about 1/16" to 1/8" thick. Install the patch piece and using a 6" taping knife, squeeze out all excess joint compound. Let it dry for a few hours or until all white.
- Do a couple more thin coats around the edges as needed until smooth with the rest of the wall, and your done!!
- Lightly sand, prime and paint !! | When you come to a place where you don’t need a whole piece of drywall you will have to cut it. This is really easily done. If you are making a cut that is straight across this is really simple. All you have to do is mark the dry wall with a pencil where the cut needs to be. Take a straight edge and score the drywall on the face paper side. Hang the drywall over the edge of your table and snap at the scored edge and then cut the back paper. Then you can smooth the rough edges.
If you are cutting out a place for a light switch or something that has to come through the drywall you will have to take precise measurement and mark the site. You will then score the area and use a saw to cut through it. If you want to make finished corners you can use corner bead. This will help your corners to be smooth, and you can use a caulking in the corners so that they have the smooth professional look.
After you have all of the dry wall hung you will then use joint compound and joint take to fill in the joints and nail indentations. First you will take a wide putty knife and put on a layer of joint compound, make this approximately four inches wide. On the seams you will then put the joint tape over that. Scrape off the excess compound. Let this stand for 24 hours so that it will set.
You will now need to put on a second coat of the joint compound; this will be the first finishing coat. Put this on smoothly and feather it out let dry for another 24 hours. Now you will have to add a second finishing coat, also feathering out. To smooth this out you will take a damp sponge and wipe them gently. If you miss an imperfection you can sand it down later. After this dries you can decorate it as you wish.
For more DIY Tips:
http://forum.repair-place.com/viewtopic.php?p=33993#33993 | | Thanks for the tips. | Makes drywall sound easy....  |
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